Introduction

For the first time in almost two years, the 56 Degree Insight team – Duncan and Jim – have been travelling! Over the last six months, we have been working with International Destination Branding guru, Tom Buncle of Yellow RailRoad to help in the development of a destination brand identity for the Province of Belluno, an hour or two north of Venice in the eastern Dolomites. Our end client – La Provincia di Belluno – wanted us to present the results of the major survey of potential visitors to an audience made up of tourism businesses and operators. So, the three of us enjoyed a very memorable trip to this stunning area last week.

We thought we’d share some ramblings and thoughts from our trip. Below, we turn the focus on pre-trip COVID protocols, the nature of proving your vaccination certification in Italy, the Bellunese tourism experience itself, car rental woes – oh and the small matter of a passport gone missing, presumed stolen, on arrival!

Pre-trip COVID tests

The Covid related requirements around international travel were foremost in our minds when we were deciding on whether or not we would be able travel to Italy – while we were keen to be there in person, the prospect of 10 days in a quarantine hotel on return was a non starter. However, as the UK and Italian travel rules began to be relaxed, the trip became a viable option - but the various forms to be completed and tests to be arranged before we could travel were still daunting prospects. All of this was made doubly difficult as we needed to look out for changes in requirements both in terms of the Scottish and Italian governments.

To travel to Italy we first had to undertake a lateral flow Covid test no more than 48 hours prior to our flight – while there is an option for the test to be posted to your home to self administer, we choose to get tested at Edinburgh Airport the day before we were due to fly. The process was slick and within 20 minutes of our nasal swabbing we were sitting having a coffee awaiting the test results. These arrived within an hour (negative!) allowing us to complete our EU Passenger Locator Form also needed for the flight the next day. While the Passenger Locator Form required us to give full details on our travel plans, hotel booked and passport details, it wasn’t overly onerous and on submission we were able to print the document ready for checks on departure and arrival.

Also, given the short nature of our trip, although we hadn’t yet left the Scotland, we still had to think about the forms to be completed and test requirements for our journey back home a few days later. Firstly while there was no longer any need to complete a Covid test while in Italy, a self administered lateral flow test was required to be taken within 2 days of our return to Scotland, all to booked in advance of our travel. We also completed what we could of the UK Passenger Locator Form – to be submitted while in Italy within 48 hours of our arrival home.

Ready to fly

With tests and forms completed, we were ready to fly. Our flight was around lunchtime on Sunday but given the additional requirements we played it safe and agreed to meet up at the airport in plenty of time. It felt a little strange to be at the airport for the first time in many months but things felt reassuringly familiar and we were pleased to see full adherence to mask wearing and social distancing.

Our flight was with Ryanair but (perhaps surprisingly) the check in process was friendly and efficient and we were soon passing through security – also efficient and organised.

A coffee and sandwich later we were boarding our flight to Treviso, and as it was only around a third full we had plenty of space to spread out. Indeed, as we thought about it, with every passenger on board Covid tested within the previous day or so, it was probably one of the safest places we could be!

Around 2 hours later we were passing over the snow covered Alps and approaching Treviso airport, just north of Venice. Our positive experiences of flying continued on arrival – on time and an only slightly longer queue for us non EU residents ☹. And our bag was one of the first off the belt!

Car Rental woes

Our first destination was Cortina, in the heart of the eastern Dolomites, around 2 hours north of the airport so first stop after passport control was the car hire desk. An upgrade for a small additional charge was offered but declined and low and behold the larger car was given to us anyway!

A few more forms were completed and we were handed the keys to an almost new Citroen C5 Hybrid (but ironically in the week of COP26 with an instruction not to recharge the vehicle and to only use petrol!). It was a lovely looking vehicle but, in addition to the expected challenges of getting used to a left hand drive, Jim (our designated driver) also had the stress of getting used to very unfamiliar automatic controls and a slightly bewildering array of hi-tec buttons and lights. At this point, a little bit of instruction from the hire car company on basics such as how to start the engine, reverse etc., would have been of great assistance but they’d closed up for the evening so we were left to figure it for ourselves!

How many consultants does it take to start a car engine jokes aside, 20 minutes later we were finally on the road, heading from the relatively flat plains of the Treviso area towards the Province of Belluno and the mountains. Once the basic controls were mastered the car proved to be comfortable, even on the hair pin bends when we reached the Dolomites – although we never did have time to work out what all of the flashing lights and controls did.

Bellunese - where exactly is it and what’s it like?

‘Bellunese’ is a region in the east of the Dolomites mountain range, less well known or developed for tourism than other areas to the west such as Bolzano. It does includes two relatively well known destinations – Cortina d'Ampezzoa to the North West of the area – perhaps best known as a luxurious ski resort, and due to host the 2026 Winter Olympics – and the Tre Cime, three iconic, stunningly scenic peaks (in English, the Three Peaks). But other parts of the region are relatively undiscovered - despite their stunning beauty. Even the provincial capital, the city of Belluno itself had a grandeur and charm that often belied its industrial heritage.

As we travelled north from Treviso to Cortina the landscape transitioned from plains and Proseco vineyards to stunning mountain scenery. And the architecture and building styles changed too - from Venetian and Mediterranean shuttered villas, to rustic Italian townhouses to the alpine lodges and chalets of Cortina and the north.

Earlier in 2021 we had conducted survey of over 2,000 residents of Italy, Germany and the UK, testing their reactions to a number of aspects of the Bellunese destination ‘proposition’. It was exciting to finally be able experience these elements first hand from the breathtaking scenery and historic buildings to the aspects which made the destination different- from the distinctive local gastronomy to the genuine, warmth of welcome we received from locals in an area where tourism is not as commercial as other destinations.

By travelling out on the Sunday, and with the Monday a Bank Holiday, we had a bit of time to experience the area before our day of presentations – packing in some sightseeing by car and a wee ramble in the hills (not quite making it to Tre Cime as the weather had closed in with the first snow of the year). It must be said that the food and drink was a particular highlight from the local take on Gnocchi to the mountain vegetables and local wines, beers and spirits! We didn’t have a bad meal - in fact, it is probably the best we’ve all eaten in a long time - the pappardelle pasta with a ragu of wild boar was particularly flavoursome!! We were also impressed by area’s infrastructure – from the flawlessly, smooth mountain roads (freshly resurfaced for the Giro d Italia) to the network of cable cars connecting mountain ranges and resorts.

While Monday was fun day we finished the evening with an early night as, on the Tuesday we were due to deliver a series of presentations and workshop to a mix of audiences from the Bellunese tourism industry, in the historic setting of the town hall in the provincial capital Belluno.

While Tom impressed us with his Italian language skills and was able to flip from Italian to English in discussions, and Jim introduced his session in some well rehearsed Italian – we were relieved to be supported throughout by Catie Burlando – integral to the team developing the destination brand and a very capable translator. Ably assisted by Catie, Jim presented the results of our research to the audience in the morning and then led by Duncan, we ran a data workshop in the afternoon – giving some non researchers the tools they needed to get as much value as possible from the data tables which accompanied our survey debrief (a potentially challenging topic to enthuse about but it felt like with the assistance of Catie and some shortbread and Tunnocks products we’d brought from Scotland, we managed to keep everyone enthused and engaged!)

A hard day’s work - but so rewarding to see our research and insights being received with such enthusiasm.

Travelling around Belluno with COVID restrictions

Of course after such a long and sustained period of staying at home and rarely venturing much beyond our local areas, we were extremely conscious of the potential risk of either catching or transmitting Covid 19 when travelling around. However, throughout the experience from travelling to and from the UK to the highest standards of safety and precautions everywhere we visited whilst in Italy, we always felt safe.

Almost without exception face coverings were worn – always indoors and often outdoors and we were impressed by the ‘Green Card scheme’ requiring proof of vaccine status on entry to any indoor venue including bars, restaurants and all public spaces. The QR codes displayed by our NHS Scotland apps worked seamlessly with the Italian scheme – quickly scanned and accepted everywhere we went (and with none of the technical glitches we’ve heard about on the equivalent UK Government app).

So, it is fair to say we felt safe throughout our time in Italy, reassured by the measures in place and the respect which the local people gave to the need for continued precautions.

In Summary

All in all, we returned home much more confident about the possibilities of safe overseas travel than we would ever have expected. Certainly Italy offers the levels of diligence and a COVID checking infrastructure which inspires high levels of confidence. And as for Bellunese itself - what an absolutely stunning part of the world. Mountain scenery that would be difficult to surpass anywhere, but supported by so many other positives - wonderfully welcoming people, proud of their area and delighted you have chosen to visit, a fascinating culture and heritage that offers so much of interest, and some of the best gastronomy experienced anywhere. We will return - for a much longer break - with our families. This is Northern Italy at its very best - no mean accolade!

But what about the lost passport?

In this tail of our travels, there does remain an elephant in the room – let Jim explain in his own words…..

“For me, there was an added dimension which brought first and foremost some extreme stress, then some inconvenience and then a realisation that I’d benefit from an extra 24 hours in another part of Northern Italy!

It all began on arrival at Treviso Airport. Having cleared passport control and picked up our baggage within 5 short minutes we were at the rental car desk – a short 50 metre walk. When I was asked for my passport ID by the hire car assistant, I quickly realised that my passport. was not in its usual holder. Initially I thought it must be in a pocket or a bag but panic set in as I realised it was no longer on my person.

I quickly retraced steps back to the baggage hall – no passport.

The lost and found office and local police were incredibly helpfully – even allowing access to the restricted baggage hall to search thoroughly - but still, no passport.

An hour later, and by now I realised there were two possible explanations – 1) I had dropped it and it had been picked up by someone still to hand it in or 2) It had been stolen

There was little more we could do there and then at the airport, so armed with the telephone numbers needed to stay in contact with the airport authorities, we decided to head for the hire car and Cortina – still in hope that it would be handed in that evening. But with no positive news that evening or indeed the following morning, I realised that I would have to apply for a new passport. This was a big decision because as soon as an application is made for an emergency passport, the missing one is declared null and void and cannot be used. I needed to be sure it wouldn’t turn up before I went down that route!

Reassuringly for anyone who finds themselves in this situation in the future, the UK Government website provides very clear advice and guidance on what to do in these circumstances. The online application took around 45 minutes to complete and Duncan took a photo of a suitably glum Jim on a plain background in the hotel in Cortina to support my application! The website indicated that the process would take two working days to complete before the passport could be picked up - and in Italy, there are two options - either the British Embassy in Rome or the British Consulate in Milan. If neither location was convenient enough to make picking it up in person practical, it could also be couriered –although this would add at least once more day to the process.

Given our return flights were within the two day period I immediately realised that I would have to make new plans for my return trip. I would travel the 5-6 hours to Milan after we had completed our work assignment – and, with emergency passport in hand, I would fly home from there.

It has to be said that I was hugely impressed by the efficiency of the whole process – again reassuring if you ever find yourself in this situation. A mere 4 hours after submitting the application I received a reassuring email stating that my application was successful and an emergency passport would be ready for pick-up the following day – I would get a phone call from someone at the Consulate to confirm arrangements. And sure enough, first thing the following morning, I received a phone call from the incredibly helpful and empathetic Carmela from the Consulate and arrangements were quickly made for pick up of the passport from the consulate the following day.

I was then able to book train travel to Milan and importantly, source a flight back to Edinburgh for the following evening direct from Bergamo to Edinburgh. Initial stress relieved I now had the bonus of 24 hours in Milan to savour (every cloud and all that!).

After accompanying Duncan back to Treviso in the rental car the following morning, I got the airport bus into Treviso then travelled by train to Venice Mestre where I picked up the fast train to Milan. Train travel is always excellent in Italy and I was able to upgrade to 1st class for the princely sum of an extra 6 euros – so was able to travel the 2.5 hours to Milan in some comfort (just what rail travel should be like!).

I arrived in rain soaked Milan on time and was like a drowned rat when I arrived at the Consulate to meet my very helpful new friend Carmela who presented me with my new passport which I then guarded with my life! I no longer have it though - an emergency transport is for one journey only and must be handed into passport control on arrival in the UK.

Job done I checked into my hotel and used the rest of the evening to catch up with work. But Thursday was such a beautiful sunny day, I had to make the most of the 8 hours I had available to enjoy this wonderful city.

Travel home - from Bergamo - was seamless with the emergency passport and since getting home, I have already submitted my application for a new permanent one.

It goes without saying that although losing a passport abroad will always be extremely stressful for anyone,, based on my experience, it is reassuring to know that the process to obtain an emergency passport is so efficient and speedy.

Addendum - 8th November, a week later, and a call from Slovenia from an elderly chap saying that he has just discovered he has my passport!! Apparently he was given it by passport control on arrival in Treviso and hadn’t noticed it wasn’t his own passport until today! That would explain why the airport ‘Lost and Found’ only had one passport in their offices - a Slovenian one!

So the Italian passport controller didn’t give me back my passport in the slew of other documentation we had to show - the Passenger Locator Form, proof of vaccination - and I hadn’t noticed. Instead, he gave it to a random Slovenian, presumably behind me in the queue!! Kristen, the Slovenian in question, was very apologetic on the phone - though it wasn’t his fault and as It’s null and void now anyway there was no point in him returning it to me. More positively, I was able to give him the numbers for the Treviso Lost and Found office and the local airport police to hopefully reunite him with his own passport. Mystery solved - and the moral of this story - double check you get all of your documents back when you pas through passport control!”

Bringing insights to life in the Mountains of Venice!

l'esperienza di viaggio - 56 Degree Insight and The Italian Job!